centring on a circular mixed-cut sapphire within an openwork foliate surround decorated with white and black enamel detail, accented with a rose-cut diamond, supporting a pearl drop, to a trace link back chain, fitted case stamped Mrs Newman, 68 Duke Street, Grosvenor Sq. W1. gilt stamped to the exterior with initials and dated 1930

Mrs N. Charlotte Newman (1836-1920) was a highly accomplished goldsmith at a time when the profession was male dominated, studying at the government art school in South Kensington, she produced jewels in a variety of revival styles adapting to the current taste of Victorian fashions. She started her career working with John Brogden exhibiting with him in Paris in 1867 & 1878. After Brogden's death in 1884 she established her own shop in Saville Row retaining many of Brogden's craftsmen. Seldom producing two jewels alike some of her jewels display a close similarity to the revivalists jewels favoured by Brogden. Even at the summit of her career and feted as one of the first artist jewellers, she still went by her husband's name and stamped her jewels Mrs N. Today her pieces are highly collectable as the first female goldsmith to work under her own name at a time of strict social convention working within a predominately male-only profession.